15 / 03 / 26

Concerto 1990 - Castello di Fonterutoli

From the cellar I retrieved a bottle of Concerto 1990 from Castello di Fonterutoli, a wine that holds a piece of Tuscan wine history within it. Castello di Fonterutoli, the estate of the Mazzei family, is among the oldest and most respected names in Chianti Classico. With Concerto, they were pioneers in the early 1980s: one of the first Tuscan wines to combine Sangiovese with Cabernet Sauvignon, long before such blends became widely accepted.

The 1990 vintage — warm and generous — has aged beautifully. In the glass, it shows a deep garnet colour with clear signs of evolution at the rim. The nose is rich and complex: dried cherries, plums and blackcurrants, followed by leather, tobacco, cocoa and a hint of balsamic. With some air, earthy notes and a subtle spiciness emerge as well — that typical layering that makes mature Tuscan wines so intriguing.

On the palate, the wine is surprisingly lively for its age. The structure has softened, but the freshness of the Sangiovese keeps it well balanced. The fruit is interwoven with tertiary aromas of spices, wood and dried flowers. The finish is elegant and harmonious, with a quiet depth that only time can bring.

For food pairings, I think of classic Tuscan dishes: beef or game stews, pappardelle with ragù, or simply roasted meat with herbs. Its character also matches beautifully with aged cheeses.

More than thirty years on, this Concerto 1990 is a wine to drink with attention. It is clearly in its mature phase, yet still has enough vitality to remain captivating. A lovely reminder of a time when Tuscany began revealing its modern identity — and when Fonterutoli played a key role in that evolution.

For food pairings, I think of classic Tuscan dishes: beef or game stews, pappardelle with ragù, or simply roasted meat with herbs. Its character also matches beautifully with aged cheeses.